Why completing Japan’s gruelling 88 temple pilgrimage was so rewarding

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I’m strolling – no, staggering – alongside a slender nation highway in rural Shikoku. The temperature on my telephone reads 45C and the air is so thick with humidity within the noon solar that it’s exhausting to breathe.

I’m sweating like I’ve by no means sweated earlier than. And carrying a large 18kg backpack, I really feel as if I’m combating for my life out right here.

I’m lower than in the future into what’s speculated to be a six-week, 1,200km-long solo hike across the smallest of Japan’s 4 important islands. It’s a gruelling historical pilgrimage that hardly anybody, even in Tokyo, has heard of – as I learnt after I landed there every week earlier than beginning the feat.

Following within the footsteps of Kobo Daishi, a famed ninth century Buddhist monk, who is claimed to have reached enlightenment by means of the bodily and psychological problem, it’ll take me to 88 temples. Right here pilgrims – who put on a conventional white gown – gather 88 distinctive marks of calligraphy from monks to trace their progress.

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At this second, finishing it appears inconceivable. I had arrived in Shikoku in a state of heartbreak and burnout, and hoped this problem could be therapeutic, however I’m already asking myself: “What was I considering?”

In addition to the warmth being insufferable, I’m additionally exhausted and it’s hit me that I really feel desperately alone. So as to add to this, I really feel anxious about not but understanding the native social etiquette. My Duo Lingo Japanese has been getting me nowhere.

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I’m nonetheless questioning my life selections after I move an aged man on his driveway. I bow my head to greet him.

Thirty seconds later he’s speeding to meet up with me, thrusting a towel and bucket hat in my course, involved for me throughout record-breaking summer season warmth.

Then after I’ve made it only a few kilometres additional, the identical man pulls up in his automobile. Evidently, he’s pushed to a close-by store after which sought me out as soon as once more – this time he passes a full plastic bag by means of his window, full of cans of iced espresso, rehydration drinks and ice packs. After thanking him profusely in my greatest Japanese, shocked by the unbelievable kindness, I gulp down some electrolytes, pop an ice pack underneath my new hat, beaming, momentarily refreshed and impressed to hold on.

That is my first, and really welcome introduction, to osettai – the centuries-long follow wherein locals provide presents to assist pilgrims (referred to as henros) – on this stroll. As I’ll later study, it’s simply considered one of tons of of sort gestures that can carry my spirits and spur me on when it’s most wanted.

The “Shikoku Henro” route is claimed to supply 4 phases of non secular improvement to those that full it: “Awakening”, “Ascetic Coaching”, “Enlightenment” and “Nirvana”. These correspond to the island’s 4 prefectures.

Unsurprisingly, of the estimated 300,000 individuals who make the pilgrimage yearly, the overwhelming majority journey by way of automobile or public transport, and only one to 2 per cent now stroll your complete route as I intend to.

At this level, I’ve an extended technique to go to achieve Nirvana, however right here goes.

Tokushima: Awakening (temples 1-23)

There’s no easing into this hike. After an extended and complex day’s journey from Tokyo to Temple one (Ryozen-ji), I’m traversing huge open farmland, bush whacking by means of dense woodland and scaling mountains canopied in tropical forest.

“Awakening” is precisely the appropriate phrase to explain this part, as I’m left all of a sudden alone in a difficult surroundings, with solely my ideas for firm.

It’s confronting each bodily and mentally – and by no means extra so than on day three after I should climb the primary of seven “henro koragashi”, which interprets to “pilgrim tumblers”, and refers to seven significantly tough to achieve temples. There are three of those in simply the primary week’s price of the route.

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Intimidating each in scale and their isolation, these climbs require pilgrims to ascend steep mountains on terrain that’s tough to scale, the place big spiders dangle above, and bright-orange crabs scuttle beneath.

Although there may be an upshot: on the primary huge climb, there’s no room for ideas of the traditional stresses of life. My thoughts is concentrated totally on reaching the highest of the mountain. In close to 100 per cent humidity with a rainstorm forecast, the forest is dripping – as am I.

I haul myself greater by means of creaking bamboo groves. Then simply quarter-hour earlier than reaching the summit, the clouds explode and I’m delivered to Temple 12, Shosan-ji, drenched. Grateful for the cooling bathe, and pleased with overcoming the primary of many challenges, my thoughts is extra comfortable, and I really feel deeply grounded within the journey.

Kochi: Ascetic Coaching (temples 24-39)

Crossing into Shikoku’s second prefecture, Kochi, I attain the Pacific South Coast, the place the countryside is changed by rugged shorelines and palm-lined seashores. The horizon punctuated solely by the darkish specks of surfers towards the stunning blue of the ocean.

I’m getting into the Ascetic Coaching part of the pilgrimage, mentioned to deliver “austerity and self-discipline” (neither being a high quality I’d often affiliate with a vacation). The main target is on pushing bodily and psychological limits to assist pilgrims confront their egos and follow self-mastery.

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With distances between temples rising to as much as 85km, and consecutive days pounding burning-hot tarmac, it’s monotonous and painful – plus with the temperature nonetheless hovering above 40C, it’s also dangerously dehydrating.

Grumpy and sick of road-walking when leaving the inland city of Tosa, I soar at the opportunity of taking an alternate mountain route to achieve the subsequent temple within the harbour of Usa.

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The path is steep and overgrown, however the view from the highest is awe-inspiring. Giddy from what I’d seen (and a sugary dessert gifted to me, as osettai, by the one different hiker I noticed), I start the lengthy descent.

Although my temper shortly adjustments when navigating slick moss lined rock – I slip half method down, tumbling over the sting of the path, fortunately changing into wedged towards a tree on a small ledge. Miraculously my mountain climbing pole, which has snapped clear in half, takes the worst of the harm.

With little room to manoeuvre, shaky, tangled in branches, and weighed down by my heavy pack like a beetle on its again, I slowly discover my technique to my toes and heave myself again as much as the trail above.

Scraped and bruised, I attain my hostel in Usa inside a few hours, the place – to my delight – I’m able to borrow a motorbike to go to Temple 36 (Shoryu-ji).

It’s a licensed rust-bucket metropolis cruiser, however pedalling in good sunshine over the epic Usao bridge is pure, unadulterated pleasure and outshines any reminiscence of falling down the mountain.

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This could grow to be considered one of a number of examples of serendipity on this part of my journey. One other was taking place upon a carnival on the route in Nakamura, the place folks danced and drank beer.

Subsequent, I deal with myself to a divine relaxation day spent snorkelling within the crystal clear waters of Oki Seashore.

As promised, I used to be pushed to my limits many instances, and my ego was actually examined, however by means of adversity got here resilience, self-discipline and the reassurance that this journey would ship respite and reward when least anticipated.

Ehime: Enlightenment (temples 40-65)

Leaving Kochi and swapping the Pacific Coast for Seto Inland Sea in Ehime, the pilgrimage is claimed to transition from being a trial to encouraging contemplation. Although I used to be actually fitter and extra at peace than after I began, there have been loads of trialling moments coming my method within the type of a slew of gritty mountain passes.

Nonetheless, amid the challenges of both discovering my path blocked, completely disintegrated by landslides, or my GPS telling me to stroll off a cliff, there was a repeated supply of solace within the type of small notes left by earlier henros.

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No extra so than on day 28, when whereas traversing one more perilous mountainside after climbing for hours, some 15km in, my path all of a sudden disappears. Cue a number of minutes of rising panic, looking out desperately for a path.

All of the sudden I spot an aged, laminated piece of paper hanging from a department. It’s the solely signal of human life I’ve seen in hours – and turns into considered one of tons of of henro tags I come throughout throughout this journey. They not solely act as helpful markers of the appropriate course, however as invaluable silent choices of reassurance left by different pilgrims, who’ve endured the identical challenges I’m dealing with.

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Kagawa: Nirvana (temples 66-88)

After finishing the journey of self-discovery, in Shikoku’s fourth prefecture pilgrims are mentioned to enter a state of peace and fulfilment. With only a week extra of strolling remaining, that is precisely how I enter Kagawa. I really feel calmer, extra current, and extra content material than I’ve in years.

I’m so relaxed on this ultimate stretch that simply three days earlier than the tip I endure my one and solely lodging mishap, ending a gruelling 37km day with out anyplace booked to remain. I merely forgot! However with my newfound calmness, I take it in my stride, looking for a mattress for the evening in a darkish stairwell on my telephone.

Arriving simply because the area’s autumn festivals happen, over the approaching days I routinely meet giant vibrant processions passing by means of villages. After so lengthy within the wilderness, as putting as these are, they offer me sensory overload, and it looks like a welcome escape after I climb again into the mountains of Kagawa the place the ultimate problem of my pilgrimage lies.

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The climb to Temple 88 (Okubo-ji) isn’t speculated to be something too strenuous. I see the 782m summit to Mount. Nyoraisan as one thing I can simply conquer, writing it off as a simple day’s work. I enable myself a leisurely lunchtime picnic forward of my ultimate victorious climb.

So it isn’t till round 1.30pm that I head uphill, the place paths quickly grow to be juicy switchbacks, and are adopted by a sketchy patchwork of ladders. Then, as soon as excessive within the sky, I’m delivered to a sheer vertical rockface. “This will’t be the best way,” I feel, wanting round for some various path. However there are none.

It will require a rock climb utilizing each fingers and toes. I take a deep breath and say out loud: “How do you eat an elephant? One chew at a time.”

One cautious transfer at a time, I haul myself up, till with white knuckles and blackened palms I attain the summit.

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After taking within the epic view of close by forested Mount. Yahazu I realise this peak is only a few metres extensive, and having simply arrived, I now to wish to quickly descend on the opposite facet. It’s already 4.15pm and beginning to get darkish. A way of urgency begins to rise.

I’ve simply 1km to go, however that requires a stable 1,000m of descent in fading gentle, on fading legs, with simply 45 minutes till the temple closes.

Decided to make it, I arrive and gather my ultimate calligraphy simply minutes earlier than the monks are on account of depart. I make my ultimate prayers alone because the final of the day’s gentle disappears.

And with that the stroll is full.

I shed a quiet tear concerning the journey I’ve made, however there isn’t a fanfare, nobody round to say effectively completed or take a photograph of me on the end line. And that feels precisely proper. This was a journey taken in solitude, in quiet contemplation. The victories are unstated.

I later uncover that the final – frankly, terrifying – climb was totally elective. There’s a highway most walkers comply with which skirts across the base of the mountain. I had needlessly dragged myself up and over. However I wouldn’t have ended it some other method.

Six weeks earlier, arriving on Shikoku feeling misplaced, and floor down by a tumultuous few years, I couldn’t have completed what I did on that ultimate day. Cliché as it might sound, I couldn’t have completed the ultimate climb with out accumulating the entire expertise I’d gained alongside the journey.

Maybe I didn’t fairly attain a state of enlightenment like Kobu Daishi, however because of the eminent great thing about each Shikoku’s nature and its folks, 1,200km later I had achieved one thing that felt equally monumental: I as soon as once more felt like myself.

Learn how to do it

From Tokyo, catch the Shinkansen bullet practice to Kobe, which takes round two and a half hours. From there take the Kobe Airport limousine bus to Naruto, bookable by way of Japan Bus On-line. Native buses or trains run from right here to Bandō Station, which is near the pilgrimage begin level, Temple 1: Ryozenji.

British Airways flies direct to Tokyo from London, with flight instances of round 14 hours.